Finnlife Valo Log Cabin

Whether you want to use your Finnlife Valo Log Cabin as a guest room, hobby hideaway, or personal library you'll find the Valo is more than up to the task. Once the door is closed you'll find yourself in a world of your own. The Finnlife Valo is about going back to basics: just you and nature.

Situate your Valo south-facing and the sun never seems to set. A wonderfully welcoming log cabin like this catches the sun at almost every angle. From early in the morning to late in the day, sunlight will stream through those massive side windows; In the middle of the day, you'll get warm lovely sunshine right through the doors.If it gets too hot, you can always swing open the doors and windows. Too cold, simply shut them tight to keep the warmth inside. Even on a dull or rainy day, the Valo's fabulous 90-degree views will lure you into the garden.

This log cabin's components are precision-cut from quality Scandanavian softwood for a perfect fit, first time and every time. The timber comes from well managed forests where indigenous wildlife and forest industries co-exist - and where the rate of tree planting exceeds the rate of felling.

Cabin Measurements

The Valo comes with these features as standard:

· 28mm Log Thickness
· Square Roof Shingle Tiles
· Perspex Glazing
· Made from Scandinavian White softwood
· 38mm wall logs
· Timber joists
· Pre-cut floor & roof boards
· Roofing shingles
· Reinforced corner and wall battens
· All necessary fixtures and fittings
· Illustrated instructions

Look out for optional extras:

· Guttering Kit
· Underfloor Heating

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Build your own Finnlife Log Cabin

Relaxing, lazy sunshining afternoons may be calling, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it is constructed, and you're guaranteed to get pleasure from many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are needed. Everyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary dependant on your experience and the number of people who help you. Obviously you don’t have to do it alone!

You might present this document to a handyman then sit back until he hands over the keys to your finished Finn Life Log Cabin. However, whosoever gets the cabin built, the immediate stage is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be orderly and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may alter a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the base of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you commence to erect you ought to ensure that you have a full set of parts. Check off each part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each part put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to put parts too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate room to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s worth running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray cutdust. Dust-free joints ensure a better fit. Walls are built by puting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now move the location of the underlying, outermost floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards properly. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as finished units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Put ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flushed with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by hammering two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and each and every ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the previous shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fasten. You will have placed the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flushed with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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Finnlife Models