Finnlife Teos Log Cabin

The Finnlife Teos log cabin by Finnforest is part of the Finnlife range of quality garden buildings.

The clean, light, spacious and Finnlife Teos Log Cabin allows the occupant a complete 180 degree view of his or her garden with surrounding windows on every side.

For added flexibility, the large opening window can be sited to either the left or right side wall.

Dimensions

External Width 4.204m

Depth 2.704m

Ridge Height 3.580m

Area 12.39m2

"External" refers to the maximum external dimension. For log cabins with terraces, this has been included in that dimension.

Perspex safety glazing.

Please note; the windows on either side of the bay are fixed (non opening).

Finnlife Teos Log Cabin - A Construction How To

Beautiful, lounging summer evenings might be enticing, but don’t hasten to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to figure out how it goes together, and you will get pleasure from many years of hassle-free pleasure. No construction skills are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary dependant on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t need to do it without any help!

You could present this document to a handyman then relax until he presents you with the keys to your great new Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, whichever person does the job, the first stage is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is unique. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the accurate base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will hold. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to erect your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you make, a firm and level base is important. Care spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the end outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to construct you ought to ensure that you have a full set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the
Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each component place them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each component near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to place components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Take the frame apart again and squeeze PVA adhesive into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Push the sides together tightly. Make Sure that the frame is alignrd correctly by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess adhesive from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out completely between wipes to stop adhesive smearing onto the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, secure all corners with the screws provided.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards end in a flush ridge line. Mark the centre line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board must be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked centre line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to remove it later on. When erecting the
Finn Life Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest that you leave small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the period when it's colder. Where building during the winter months we would advise hitting the boards together, to reduce any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The final roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Lay it back on the roof and nail down. Take away the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Make Sure that the eaves line made by the roof boards is reasonably straight. If necessary use a saw to remove it flush. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Lay ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fasten by hammering two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Lay the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the previous shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to secure. You will have placed the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fasten.

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