Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin

The Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin is the multi-use hall that never closes.

The Souja log cabin is from only the finest quality softwood from highly sustainable Scandinavian sustainable forests. It features wall logs in alternate layers together with windproof tongue and groove joints which give a weatherproof building.

Why buy the Finnforest Suoja Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 44mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 3.1m
External: 3.8m

Depth:
Internal: 5.07m
External: 5.36m

Ridge Height:
External: 2.7m

Area:
Internal: 17.81m²
External: 20.36m²

See your preffered stockists for extras such as underfloor heating.

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Build your Finnlife Suoja Log Cabin

The lounging summertime evenings might be enticing, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it is constructed, and you’ll get pleasure from many years of hassle-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Obviously you don’t need to do it alone!

It is possible to present this document to a professional builder then relax until he presents you with the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. Having said that, whoever finishes the task, the immediate stage is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For features that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo
be aware that certain instructions may be different slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the base of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using compacted type gravel. For compacted gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compacted.

Before you start to erect you ought to make sure that you have a complete set of components. Check off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set each component close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to set components too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Pull the frame apart again and squeeze PVA adhesive into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Push the sides together tightly. Check that the frame is alignrd correctly by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess adhesive from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out completely between wipes to prevent adhesive smearing over the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, fasten all corners with the screws provided.

Persist with laying wall boards according to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The final few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to give support to an overhanging canopy. Place angled gable boards sequentially starting with the length-most. Be careful with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloped roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloped ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends highlights a succession of slots for the roof beams. As each slot appears, tap in a roof beam. Make sure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Secure by nailing into the top gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces on top of the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then fasten by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the first row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Move until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the final shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Place the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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