Finnlife Seita Log Cabin

The Finnlife Seita Log Cabin comes with a veranda providing a charming air to this log cabin and has been designed to utilise the most space.

With its half glazed door and opening window this charming log cabin is a great place to while away the hours. The walls are made using tongue and groove 28mm timber with the corners finished in an interlocking design for further strength.

* Roof with shingles for long-lasting protection from the elements
* Half glazed doors
* Opening window
* Veranda with handrail
* Tongue and groove timber
* 28mm thick walls
* Interlocking corners for a sturdy construction

As with Finnlife Log Cabins, the Seita can come with underfloor heating.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Seita 1 front opening window
Seita with underfloor heating 1 front opening window

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Seita 0cm 0cm
Seita with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine
Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material
Seita Styrene
Seita with underfloor heating Glass

Floor Material Tongue & Groove
Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Seita 2.8cm
Seita with underfloor heating 2.8cm

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Build a Finnlife Log Cabin

Beautiful, long summery evenings might be calling, but don’t rush to erect your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it is put together, and you're guaranteed to enjoy many years of hassle-free pleasure. No specialist abilities are needed. Everyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will change depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t need to do it yourself!

It’s possible to show this text to a professional builder then relax until he delivers the keys to your great new Finnlife Log Cabin. However, no matter who gets the cabin built, the immediate stage is to read carefully these instructions. The trick is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may alter a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the base of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you start to construct you ought to ensure that you have a complete set of components. Check off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the
Finn Life Log Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every component lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each component close to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to lay components too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to proceeding.

Take the frame apart again and squeeze PVA adhesive into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Press the sides together tightly. Check that the frame is alignrd correctly by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess adhesive from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out thoroughly between wipes to stop adhesive smearing onto the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, fix all corners with the screws provided.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily tack an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards finish in a flushed ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The uppermost end of the roof board should be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to remove it later on. When constructing the
Finn Life Log Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest to leave small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the period when it's colder. When building during the winter months we would advise tapping the boards together, to minimize any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
created by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Lay it back on the roof and nail down. Remove the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the other side of the roof.

Check that the eaves line created by the roof boards is approximately straight. If necessary use a cut to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Alter until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Secure the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Keep cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fix with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Keep cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models