Finnlife Pori Log Cabin

There's room to swing a cat in the Finnlife Pori Log Cabin - room enough for a pool cue fully extended - room enough to practice dancing - got kids? invite the whole class round for a birthday party!

The covered veranda offers almost as much space again. Don't ask a few friends over, ask them all - there'll still be room to spare.

Why buy the Finnforest Pori Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 5.63m
External: 5.90m

Depth:
Internal: 3.63m
External: 5.39m

Ridge Height
External: 3.13m

Area:
Internal: 20.48m²
External: 31.82m²

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Constructing the Pori Log Cabin

Those lounging summer days might be beckoning, but don’t rush to erect your Finnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to get to know how it is put together, and you’ll savour many years of hassle-free pleasure. No construction abilities are involved. Everyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t need to do it yourself!

You could show this document to a carpenter then take it easy until he delivers the keys to your brand new Finn Life Log Cabin. However, whosoever completes the work, the immediate step is to read carefully these instructions. The trick is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finnlife Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo
be aware that certain instructions may alter a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic matter prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid bigger than the base of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in each direction and 6” thick when using compressed type gravel. For compressed gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and compressed.

Before you begin to erect you ought to make sure that you have a complete set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the
Finn Life Cabin reference number displayed on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every component set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each component near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that components are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to set components too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to continuing.

Put out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly beneath those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finnlife Cabin is complete you can then go back and cut off away any unnecessary polythene/DPC membrane showing. Ensure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finnlife Cabin is square. Put one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily stick an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to make sure that all roof boards terminate in a flush ridge line. Mark the middle line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Begin nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board must be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Nail an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked middle line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to remove it later on. When constructing the
Finn Life Cabin during the summer periods, we advise leaving small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the period when it's colder. When constructing during the winter period we would advise hitting the boards together, to alleviate any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
fashioned by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The final roof board may stick out beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the underside where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Take off the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line fashioned by the roof boards is reasonably straight. If needed use a cut to remove it flush. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Put ridge shingles carefully over the ridge without creasing. Begin from the front of the Finnlife Log Cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Fix by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the previous shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have laid the final ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.

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Finnlife Models