Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

The Finnforest Mokki Log Cabin is a spacious and light shed-cum-summerhouse replete with a pair of doors and nice large window, allowing for an ideal and never-resented extra sitting room; just the place to enjoy afternoon tea.

Finnforest cabins are manufactured employing the best quality softwood from Scandinavian sustainable forests which are managed with a conscience and there is a harmonious existence between wildlife and industry. It's alternate layering of the wall logs allows for a rigid building - a standard of excellence unique to Finnlife Log Cabins.

Clearly illustrated, step-by-step instructions come with your cabin making assembly easier and more straightforward. The doors and windows come fully glazed. The wood is packed in protective plastic and comes packaged in the correct order for assembly, which will save you time.

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

DIMENSIONS

Internal: 3.54m x 2.70m (11ft 7in)
External: 3.80m x 2.96m (12ft 5in x 9ft 8in)
Internal Area: 9.56m² (103 ft²)
External Area: 11.25m² (121 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.51m (8'3")
It isrecommend that a concrete base is used and the cabin walls are approximately 35mm off the ground. The floor has floor joists which are pressure treated.

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How to build your very own Finnlife Mokki Log Cabin

Wonderful lounging summery days may be calling, but don’t hurry to erect your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to get to know how it goes together, and you're guaranteed to enjoy many years of hassle-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary dependant on your skills and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

You might show this text to a handyman then relax until he hands over the keys to your completed Finnlife Cabin. However, no matter who finishes the task, the initial stage is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may be different a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid larger than the footprint of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you commence to erect you should check that you have a complete set of parts. Check off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay every part close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you see how the Finn Life Cabin is built and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to put parts too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Set out the floor beams at regular intervals in line with the layout in the Building Plans and Parts List. Where the beams join with interior or exterior walls make sure they lie directly under those walls, ensuring that there is a lip for the internal room floor boards.

Cut the polythene transit packaging (or a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane) into strips roughly 12cm wide. Cut a pair of strips for each floor beam making sure that the strip lengths are about 50mm longer than the floor beams. When your Finn Life Cabin is complete you can then go back and remove away any extra polythene/DPC membrane visible. Ensure that floor beams are level and that the cross diagonals are equal. Equidistant cross-diagonals mean that your Finn Life Cabin is square. Set one damp-proof strip beneath each floor beam and one above. Make sure that no part of the floor beam is touching the underlying foundations.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards effectively. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as completed units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the first row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the ending shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Set the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to create an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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