Finnlife Lovisa Log Cabin

The Finnforest Lovisa Log Cabin: Attractive, Functional and Exciting!

The Finnlife Lovisa Log Cabin is a beautiful cabin offering an examplary amount terrace area and a roomy space inside with yet more internal room offering you more options and the scope to rearrange and improve.

Like all log cabins in the Finnlife range it is constructed using top quality Scandinavian White softwood. This comes from sustainable forests which are well managed, and where industry and the wildlife are harmonious.

One of only two log cabins (the Finnlife Helsinki being the other) that features an upstairs storage area accessable via a ladder. Use it as a storage space, use it as a hideaway, the choice is yours!

Well illustrated, step-by-step plans are supplied with your cabin making assembly more simple and more straightforward. The doors and windows come fully glazed making life easier for you. The wood is packed in protective plastic and comes packaged in the correct order for assembly, saving you time.

Why buy the Finnlife Lovisa Log Cabin

* Very well structured
* Storage Space
* Gorgeous features
* Easy to convert Sauna Space
* Upstairs room
* Front terrace
* Fully Glazed windows
* Spacious Interior

What is the building used for:

FEATURES

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 45mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual
* Outside terrace
* Upstairs space accessed by ladder

DIMENSIONS

Internal: 5.64m x 3.63m (18ft 6in x 11ft 11in)
External: 5.90m x 5.94m (19ft 3in x 19ft 5in)
Total Internal Area: 20.48m² (220 ft²)
Total External Area: 30.52m² (329 ft²)
Ridge Height: 3.40m (11ft 2in")

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Construct the Lovisa Log Cabin

Relaxing, long summery days might be enticing, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Allow the time to work out how it is constructed, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist abilities are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will alter dependant on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

You might present this document to a professional builder then relax until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finn Life Log Cabin. Having said that, whichever person completes the work, the initial stage is to read carefully these instructions. The trick is to be orderly and to plan ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may be different slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is crucial. Time given to the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the final outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to erect you should make sure that you have a complete set of pieces. Check off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each piece close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin is built and it means that pieces are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to put pieces too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and make sure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Your ready Finn Life Log Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They offer a solid base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not block the circulation of air on the underside of the cabin by covering the uncovered end. To stop damp rising into your cabin each floor beam should be covered by two strips of damp-proof membrane, one above and one underneath. The polythene transit packaging provides a perfectly good damp-proof course when cut into thin strips. Otherwise you can purchase a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and make that into strips. Floor beams are easy to notice. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your [Finnlife Log Cabin
model; please refer to your specific Building Plans and Parts List.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames lightly from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Make Sure that the doors open outwards effectively. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Make Sure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as finished units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Make Sure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the first row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Move until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the entire length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the final shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Lay the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its total length. That means that the mid-points of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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