Finnlife Kesa Log Cabin

The Finnlife Kesa lets you fully enjoy those eternal summer evenings. Right here is the place to share a slow leisurely sunset with your nearest and dearest.

Finnforest cabins are manufactured using only the highest quality softwood from Scandinavian sustainable forests which are consciously managed and where industry and wildlife eke out a harmonious existence. The wall logs are set in alternate layers together with windproof tongue and groove joints, allowing for a totally weatherproof building.

The for this log cabin are set out step-by-step and well illustrated. The doors and windows come fully glazed making life easier for you. The wood comes packaged in a protective plastic and is packed in the correct order for assembly, saving you time.

Specifications

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 44mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions

Internal: 4.17m x 3.51m (13ft 7in x 11ft 6in)
External: 4.46m x 3.80m (14ft 7in x 12ft 5in)
Ridge Height: 2.77m (9'1")
Internal Area: 14.64m² (158 ft²)
External Area: 16.95m² (182 ft²)
Ridge Height: 2.77m (9'1")

Please note that the wood will need to be treated after is it assembled

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Building Your Finnlife Log Cabin

Relaxing, lounging sunshining evenings may be enticing, but don’t hurry to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to understand how it goes together, and you'll certainly get pleasure from many years of hassle-free pleasure. No specialist abilities are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it without any help!

It’s possible to present this document to a handyman then relax until he delivers the keys to your great new Finnlife Cabin. Having said that, no matter who gets the cabin built, the initial step is to understand fully these instructions. The knack is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo
be aware that certain instructions may differ a slight amount from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material before you begin work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the accurate base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to build your Finnlife Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is important. Time spent on the foundations is well invested. An uneven or unstable base may well affect the final outcome of the Finnlife Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to build you should check that you have a complete set of parts. Tick off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every part close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Cabin goes together and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to lay parts too close to the Finnlife Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the complete frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Your complete Finnlife Cabin rests on a series of parallel beams known as floor beams. They offer a strong base and raise the cabin off the ground for ventilation. Do not obstruct the flow of air beneath the cabin by covering the uncovered end. To prevent damp rising into your cabin every floor beam should be covered by two strips of damp-proof membrane, one above and one below. The polythene transit packaging provides a perfectly acceptable damp-proof course when cut into thin strips. Otherwise you can buy a sheet of commercial damp-proof membrane and cut that into strips. Floor beams are easy to notice. They are impregnated with a long-lasting preservative that makes them darker. The layout of floor beams depends on your Finnlife Log Cabin
model; please refer to your individual Building Plans and Parts List.

Continue laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some Finnlife Log Cabin are longer. The lengths increase in steps to give support to an overhanging canopy. Set angled gable boards sequentially beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloping roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at either end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloping ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends reveals a succession of openings for the roof beams. As every opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flushed with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flushed, then fasten by nailing from each side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the top. Put the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Move until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. End the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the ending shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Set the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the mid-points of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models