Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

The Finnforest Ikkuna Log Cabin: The best way to work from home.

Some jobs need a bit more room than others. Architects have to go back to the drawing board; graphic designers like to see things on the big screen; film and video-makers want an indoor studio

What do all these people need? The Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin- a redefinition of the concept of home office. Here, you dont so much work from home as live near the office. Still, it's your own place, so do with it what you like.

Why buy the Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin?

* Made from precision-cut top quality Scandanavian White Softwood
* 45mm wall logs - provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year-round use
* Timber joists
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions

Dimensions:

Width:
Internal: 4.37m
External: 4.64m

Depth:
Internal: 5.01m
External: 6.33m

Ridge Height
External: 3.50m

Area:
Internal: 21.56m²
External: 29.40m²

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Build a Finnlife Ikkuna Log Cabin

Wonderful slow summertime afternoons may be beckoning, but don’t hasten to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to work out how it is constructed, and you'll certainly get pleasure from many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are involved. Everyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will change depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it alone!

You may show this text to a handyman then relax until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. But, whichever person finishes the task, the initial stage is to read carefully these instructions. The knack is to be disciplined and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is distinctive. These overall instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may differ a slight amount from those found here.

Gravel option: Get rid of all organic debris prior to starting work on the foundations. Foundations must always be laid bigger than the footprint of your Finnlife Log Cabin – 300mm wider in all direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you start to construct you ought to ensure that you have a full set of pieces. Tick off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put each piece close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be wary not to put pieces too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient space to work in.

Place out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the ready frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Note again that if your Finn Life Cabin includes partitioning walls, also Place the full-height wall boards that form the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for help. Pay specific attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The position of these notches shows where the interlocking walls go.

Screw one end (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screw) only of one half-height wallboard to the underlying outermost floor beam by driving a screw (supplied) through the base of the corner joint. Leave the other three corners loose. If required, adjust the internal floor beams to keep an even spacing between them. Screw the half-height wall boards (5mm Dia x 100mm length wood screws) to the rest of the floor beams. 10.5 Check that the structure is square by examining the lengths of the cross-diagonals. If necessary, you can adjust by pivoting the four linked wall boards on the one corner that you have already screwed down. Momentarily lift the full-height wall boards so that you can affix screws into the three remaining corner joints into the outermost floor beams.

Start laying the second set of wall boards. Bear in mind that the wall that houses the door will consist of two separate wall boards with a door-width gap between. To ensure a snug fit, you should tap each layer down on to the layer below. Do not hammer wall boards directly. Use the provided assembly piece (a short length of wall board with a matching joint on the lower surface) to take the blows. In the event that you have not taken receipt of an assembly piece then any scrap piece of wood will offer adequate protection for the tongues. Do not hammer too hard.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Check that the doors open outwards properly. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Check that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to build up the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the top architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows arrive as finished units with wide grooves alike to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Hit lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Check that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three surfaces; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Place roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Place the initial row of shingles with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Place this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face top and the green surfaces at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the last shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Place the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to make an even pattern. Start all row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You can do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the first slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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