Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin

The Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin is the workshop that lets you spread out as much as you want without getting in anyone elses way.

Perhaps you're a gardener or maybe you like to Do It Yourself. Either way you'll love that free feeling that comes from having your very own place to work - a place where everything is close at hand.

The Hytti has lots of room for tools, DIY equipment, and also comes with a workbench. Also, there isa door that you can shut behind you and let you get on with the things that are really important.

Why buy the Finnforest Hytti?

* Made from Scandinavian White Wood
* Workshop features 19mm thick logs
* A great building for storage

This shed is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers. Shop around for extras and bargains!

DIMENSIONS:
Internal Width: 2.36m (7'8")
External Width: 2.60m (8'8")
Internal Depth: 1.76m (5'9")
External Depth: 2.00m (6'6")
Ridge Height: 2.05m (6'8")
Internal Area: 4.15m² (45 square feet)
External Area: 5.20m² (56 square feet)

How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin

Sumptuous, lounging summertime days may be coming, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to work out how it goes together, and you'll certainly savour many years of hassle-free pleasure. No construction skills are required. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Log Cabin, although some jobs may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will change dependant on your skills and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t need to do it without any help!

It’s possible to present this text to a professional builder then sit back until he delivers the keys to your completed Finnlife Cabin. However, whoever finishes the task, the immediate step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The trick is to be systematic and to plan ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is exceptional. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finnlife cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, Finn Life Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo
be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic material prior to starting work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the exact base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can build your Finn Life Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compressed gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is essential. Time given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will affect the final outcome of the Finn Life Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not fit together.

Before you start to erect you ought to check that you have a full set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been broken in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the
Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each component lay them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Lay each component near to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be careful not to lay components too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Put out the four sides of the door frame on a dirt-free and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s a good idea to running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray sawdust. Dust-free joints ensure a better fit. Walls are built by laying wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now adjust the position of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not extend externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually sit.

When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily stick an eaves fascia board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards end in a flushed ridge line. Mark the mid-point line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board may be flushed with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and each roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.

Tack an eaves fascia board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flushed with the marked mid-point line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will need to remove it later on. When constructing the
Finn Life Cabin during the hotter months, we suggest leaving small gaps between the roof boards to accommodate expansion of the boards during the winter months. Where constructing during the winter time we would advise tapping the boards together, to minimize any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.

Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Tack it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and saw it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Take away the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.

Ensure that the eaves line made by the roof boards is reasonably straight. If needed use a saw to remove it flushed. Attach the eaves fascia boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flushed with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Put roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Put the first row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves fascia board. Alter till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves fascia board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Cut off the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Put this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green flaps at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Cut off the last shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Put the first shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start each row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Carry on putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. If available, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with any trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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